Volvo Special Tool Designs                                                                          FAQ Home

  Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars                                                                                                                     Version 5.0

Homemade Tools from Brick Owners

Homemade Cooling System Pressure Tester

Fuel Pressure Test Tool

B230F Crank Holder Tool

Vacuum Leak Checker

Large Gauge Wire Crimper

M-46 Overdrive Pressure Relief Valve Tool

Engine Lift and Support

Distributor Drive Pin Remover Tool

Timing Belt Tensioner Lock Tool

Rear Engine Seal Installer Press

Pre-Pump and Fuel Tank Sending Unit Removal Tools

Homemade Cooling System Pressure Tester. Here's what I've rigged up for both pressure testing the cooling system and bleeding the clutch and brakes: I found an old bottle cap that has the same threads as the coolant reservoir. Then I bought $1.00 worth of tank valves and screwed one into it. If you don't have such a cap, then an old coolant reservoir cap should work even better. When I need to use it, I take the gasket out of the coolant reservoir cap and use it in my "pressure cap". I connect a $5.00 bicycle pump (with built in pressure gauge) to the cap and presto. Since the brake reservoir has the same type orifice, it can also be used to pressure bleed the clutch and brakes.

Fuel Pressure Test Tool. At last check, Volvo wanted $600 for the pressure rig to test control,
system, and residual pressures. I built one for much less ... here's how. Parts needed: Now, hook them up in this order:

Banjo Nut - 1" vacuum hose - nipple - extender -tee -valve -extender-nipple-1" vacuum hose - Banjo Nut

Use the tie wraps to clamp the vacuum hose onto the banjo nuts and the nipples. Vacuum host isn't ideal for this, but the tests are short term and a short piece of the hose holds the pressure just fine. The gauge goes on the top of the tee. Be sure to use teflon tape to seal all connections.

One of the banjo bolt goes where your control pressure feed line connects to the fuel distributor. The other one gets bolted into one end of the nylon spacer. The other end of the spacer has the control pressure feed line bolted to it.

Now, follow your Bentley or Haynes directions to test... when placing the tester into the fuel circuit, be sure to orient the valve on the correct 'side' or else you'll only be able to measure system pressure.

Special Volvo Fittings to Make Connection. [Tip from Neal] Here are the Volvo part numbers for two hard to get parts needed to build a fuel pressure gauge assembly:

 9995267-7 Nipple $27.45
 9995116-2 Hose $ 9.30

The nipple is the fitting that connects between the rubber fuel line and the fuel rail. The hose includes the banjo fitting that attaches inline with the nipple. The other end of the hose is an unusual fitting that I imagine could connect only to a Volvo fuel pressure gauge. I cut that fitting off, and installed a 1/8" male pipe thread with barbed fitting pressed onto the hose. The 1/8" male pipe screws into almost any fuel pressure gauge found at any auto store. Make sure you get a gauge that goes to at least 100psi.

B230F Crank Holder Tool.  [Don Foster]  Here is the design for the tool used to secure the crank pulley to remove the bolt while changing the timing belt.  [Editor's Note: You can purchase this tool number 5284 from Volvo dealers; see the FAQ section on Timing Belt Tips]

Rear View:

Side View:

Detail of Rear and Front Views:

Vacuum Leak Checker.  [Tip from Paul Kane] A good vacuum leak check device is a butane charcoal lighter.  Don't light it,  just use it for 'sniffing' around the suspected leak.  Apply the butane to the potential leak- if RPMs change - you've found the leak.

Large Gauge Wire Crimper.  [Tip from Tom Harper]  Ever needed to get a solidly crimped electrical terminal on larger cables (8 - 4 gauge), but found the cost of crimp tools in that size to cause "sticker shock"?  Here's something I've been doing - it works for UNinsulated terminals.
1. Measure the OD of the uninsulated terminal barrel you need to crimp
2. Find (or buy - a dime or so) a nut with a thread size (thread OD - not ID) equal to or slightly smaller than the size in step 1
3. Drill out the nut to match the terminal OD
4. Cut the nut in half, across opposing corners (NOT across the flats). Your Dremel tool will come in handy for this - a hacksaw will do it also, just takes more time.
5. Find a piece of round stock about 1/8" - 3/16" (3-4 mm) diameter, about 3/8" (1 cm) long (you can cut the head off a screw for this - the threads won't affect anything.)   You now have a "saddle" and a "punch" (halved nut & screw/round stock piece).
6. Put the terminal in the "saddle", and the "punch" lying lengthwise on top of the terminal, opposite the "saddle" - you'll probably want to tape the assembly together, otherwise it takes 3 or 4 hands.
7. Put the cable end into the terminal, and crimp the whole works together using a bench vise, Vise-Grips, or equivalent. The "saddle" supports the bottom of the terminal, while the "punch" crimps everything nice & tight.

I've gotten really tight & secure crimps on up to 4 gauge cable by hand with this method. After a dozen or so uses, the nut may crack & start to spread; no problem, since you have the other half, and making new "saddles" is easy & cheap anyway.
Make sure your terminal barrel ID is close to the wire OD - this method doesn't do too well if there's a lot of empty space between the wire and the terminal. You may be a bit clumsy at first, but once you work out a way to keep everything aligned as you start the crimp, it'll go really well.   The new Vice-Grip adjustable wrench is ideal for this - the "V"-shaped jaw is ideal for supporting the "saddle".
Volvo content - used this trick yesterday when making some "overkill" (4 gauge) engine-to-body ground and alternator-to-starter terminal cables.

M-46 Overdrive Pressure Relief Valve Tool.  [Duane Hoberg]  Here is a tool I designed for removing the Pressure Relief Valve ( between numbers 22 and 23 on the diagram of the overdrive overhaul procedures.

Engine Lift and Support.  See the photo and planform for Dick Riess' and John Vilas' design for an engine lift and support, useful for changing motor mounts and oil pans.  It is made of 2x6 lumber and mounts on the fender channels. 

Distributor Drive Pin Remover Tool.  [Tool design by John Vilas]  This tool may be used with a vise or hammer to remove the shaft pin holding the distributor together.  You will need it should you ever decide to change the inner o-ring seal on this shaft.  You can purchase this from:
John Vilas
Vilas Motor Works
901 S. Texas Avenue
Bryan, TX  77803-4554   Cost is $25 (at 6/6/00)

Timing Belt Tensioner Lock Tool.  Use this to secure your tensioner pulley out of the way when installing a timing belt in B21/23/230 engines.  Purchase it from:
John Vilas
Vilas Motor Works
901 S. Texas Avenue
Bryan, TX  77803-4554   Cost is $12.50 (at 6/6/00)

Rear Engine Seal Installer Press.  Use this press to correctly install your engine rear main seal on B21/23/230 series engines.  Purchase it from:
John Vilas
Vilas Motor Works
901 S. Texas Avenue
Bryan, TX  77803-4554   Cost is $35.00 (at 6/6/00)

Pre-Pump and Fuel Tank Sending Unit Removal Tools.  [Special bonus for 200-series owners!]  Use this lcok ring remover to take out your sending unit on 200-series cars.  Purchase it from:
John Vilas
Vilas Motor Works
901 S. Texas Avenue
Bryan, TX  77803-4554   Cost is $25.00 (at 6/6/00)

Pre-Pump Removal Tool.  [Tip from Ross Gunn]  Anyone have a Prepump tool they used when they removed the pump from the tank?  Volvo has one of these tools, anyone have one they wouldn't mind loaning out? I'm afraid of taking screwdrivers to it as I might break something.  Any ideas?

I made one out of 1/8"steel plate which I shaped like this:

|                            |
| _______________ |
|__|           |__|

Using vice grips as a handle at ^ , it was quite easy to remove the level sender/pump unit.

Another version for 240 cars by Don Foster:

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