FAQs about Series 1800

  • How can I check if my SU carbs are shot?
  • Does Toyota have an 1800 look-a-like?
  • A few questions about the 1800.
  • Can I still get door seals for my 1800?
  • Technical information on sway bars.
  • P1800 Summary.
  • My P1800 needs body work, any suggestions?
  • D-jet manifold sensor.
  • B-20 parts prices.
  • Any advice on rebuilding my transmission?
  • P1800S hits 1,260,000 miles.
  • What is causing my P1800ES to buck?

  • How can I check if my SU carbs are shot?

    From: John_E_Werner.Wbst311@xerox.com
    Subject: SU carbs
    To: wiegman@orion


    First, check that the chokes are hooked up to both SUs. When you pull the choke all the way (i.e. for cold starts), the jet assemblies on both SUs should lower making the mixture much richer.

    Second, clean the carbs with carb cleaner (i.e. gumout).

    Third, check to see that the dash pots are full. If not, refill them. I use 3in1 oil for the SUs and ATF for the strombergs. I have also heard some people say that for high performance applications you should leave them empty to get better throttle response.

    Fourth, check the ignition system. Time spent fiddling with the carbs will do little to solve fouled plugs.

    Haynes has a very good manual on the SU carbs. If the car makes it up to the Volvo-Net Meet, I can take a shot at tuning it there.

    BTW: It is quite possible that the SUs will are shot. and need a complete rebuild. Check the needles to make sure they are still round. Also check the jet seats. They should be round. If either of these is gone, replace them.

    Another thing to check is the area where the throttle shafts go into the carburator body. The carburator body is Al, but the shafts are steel. There are no bearings there, and over time/use the holes be come oblong, making it impossible to tune the carbs. If the throttle shaft has play, that's the problem. I have heard of a couple of places that will bush these areas with bronze bushings, but I don't have any information. I do remember that the cost was a bit high for something I could do myself, given access to a machine shop.

    This is a pretty good description of tuning SUs. It is basically what I do, but there are some minor differences.

    Some Notes:

    1. Don't play with the throttle syncing unless it has been already screwed with. It is real pain to resync them. Idle balancing is quite different and is very easy to do.

    2. For the SUs Volvo used, there is an adjustment nut on jet assembly. Turn the nut one way and the seat raises, making the mixture leaner. Turn it the other, and the jet lowers making it richer.

    3. A trick I use in adjusting SUs is to raise the dash pot while the car is idling. If the car idles faster, the mixture is rich (raising the dash pot leans the mixture). If the car slows down, the mixture is lean. (This may be backwards, it should be obvious when you try it.) To raise it too far, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch should do. Over raising it can cause the car to run lean and nasty things can happen then. On the bottom of the dash pot cover is a little rod you can push up to raise the dash pots.

    Good Luck,

    -- John

    From: southern@neit.cgd.ucar:edu:Xerox
    Subject: SU carbs
    Date: 18-November-91 (Monday) 9:26:15 EST
    To: John E Werner

    >If any one is interested, I can give a short lesson on tuning SU
    >(and to some extent Stromberg) carbs at the Volvo-net meet, or maybe even by


    I've got a couple SU carbs articles that I've saved off of british-cars. I appended the how-to article below and I've got a long debugging carbs thread that's more wordy that I can also send if your interested.

    /\ Lawrence Buja Climate and Global Dynamics Division
    \_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research

    From: garnett@theory.TN.CORNELL.EDU (Roger Garnett)
    Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1991 13:01:59 EDT
    To: british-cars@encore.com
    Subject: SU Tuning, updated

    On Apr 8, 3:23pm, Daniel J. Dasaro wrote:

    } Can I get this car in tune with no more than a Unisyn?

    You bet! You don't even need a Uni-Syn, just a piece of vacumn line and your ear will do the trick. Which means, that it's about time for a posting of how to twiddle SU's. Hmm- it's been a year since I updated this, and I've been promising to add Type HIF info. So, here it is, the new, SU-it-yourself proceedure.

    Tuning Your S.U. Carbs

    -Roger Garnett Rev. 4/9/91

    Well, it's not really that hard to set up SU's, just different. Of course it always gets more interesting when you have more than one... There is a very good Haynes SU carb manual available, reccommended reading. The basic syncing process also applies to Zenith-Stromberg's, but the adjustment mechanisms are different. Here is a laymans guide to adjusting SU's (long):

    step 1- Tune up the rest of the engine- REALLY! clean or replace, and set the points, set the timing, plugs, valve lash, and remove the air filters. (have new ones ready) All of these things can affect the setting of the carbs, which should be done LAST, (if at all). The carbs rarely need to be adjusted, once set. Also replace/install the gas filter. Of course, it helps if the carbs are in good mechanical condition as well. But you can consider a rebuild once you have gotten things working first!

    step 2- clean the carbs! use gum-out or similar stuff, clean all external linkages, shafts, and stuff.

    step 3- Remove the float bowl covers, clean the float bowls, remove old sediment, and check/adjust the float setting. (turn the cover upside down, and get a *1/8" in drill bit, set the drill bit accross the cover, the float tab should just touch the bit.) Make sure the needle is moving and seating properly. This is just like *most* floats. Replace the cover.

    * This is for HS4 SU's- (1/8-3/16") if you are dealing with 1",

    H's, HS2's HS6's, HIF's, etc.- check the spec for your carb.

    Note: You can check for matching float settings, after setting the mixture, by removing the pistons, and peering down at the jets. The fuel level should be about the same on both carbs, a little below the top surface of the jet. (After car has been run only)

    step 3b- Go get a pint of ale, or something close, and set it nearby.

    step 4- Remove the piston covers. CAREFULLY remove the piston, DO NOT BEND THE NEEDLE. Set the piston down on a clean wadded rag to prevent rolling. Clean the inside of the carb. Check operation of the throttle. Check the throttle shaft slop- this is the most common place for wear on an SU, and is often where air/vacumn leaks occur. The bushings and shafts can be replaced, but it requires some machining. A small amount of leakage can be tolerated, the car just won't idle as evenly. Clean the piston. Stare in awe at the odd carborator design, simple and effective, (constant velocity). Dump the old oil out of the damper if you haven't already spilled it. clean. Reassemble, check piston movement, raise it, then let go, it should fall freely. If not, check assembly again, make sure the piston isn't binding against the carb body, it should ride only on the damper shaft. Do not strech the spring. When all is operating properly, fill the damper with Marvel Mystery Oil for light damping, or use motor oil for heavier damping. (I use MMO) If you get "flutter" on, acceleration, you might try the heavier oil.

    step 5- Start the car and warm it up, then turn off/disconnect/otherwise disable the choke mechenism. (Loosen the nuts on the clamps so that the choke stuff isn't doing anything) This will get set later. (Later Zenith-Strombergs have a thermostatic choke, not a cable.)

    step 6- Check coarse throttle adjustments- make sure the throttle cable pulls on both carbs equally, and returns completly when released. This is adjusted by loosing the set screws on the throttle shaft and matching the two sides. You can also adjust the cable length at this time, using the cable set screw/retainer at the end of the cable. You can check the float adjustments now by removing the piston & cover, and looking at the fuel level in the needle seats. Both carbs should be about even, a little below the top surface of the jet. If not, readjust one or both floats to match the level.

    step 7- Syncronize the throttles- if you have a uni-syn, here's your chance to use it, (or other air flow guage), if not use a tube and listen to the airflow. The Uni-Syn is much easier to use, and can result in better balance. Alternatly adjust the idle screw on each carb, attempt to set the idle as low as possible (~800-1000 RPM). Adjust until the airflow is *close* to the same at each carb. The engine may now be running rough, just keep the idle speed high enough to keep running. Give the throttle a quick snap to make sure everything is settled, then check sync again. Periodicly snap the throttle to make sure everything is seated. Large differences in where you can adjust the two carbs may indicate air/vacumn leaks, or other problems, such as a bad valve)

    Magic Time- Relax, and shake your voodoo rattle...

    step 8- Adjust the mixture- this is done with the spring-loaded hex fitting under the carb, where the fuel supply tube enters from the float. Turning the fitting raises and lowers the needle seat. Pick a carb, and turn the fitting 3 flats (1/2 turn), first in one direction, then back 3, then 3 in the other direction. Note where the engine runs better, idle speed should increase. Turn to the best setting. Repeat this proceedure until you get the best operation you can, (higest idle speed), keeping track of flats turned will help you remember where you were. If you get lost, turn all of the way in, then back out 12 flats and start again. Periodicaly snap the throttle and push up on the fitting to make sure everything is seated.

    Note: Type HIF carbs (With integrated float bowl) no longer have the hex nut to adjust the mixture. Instead, there is a screw to twiddle, on front of the front carb, and behind the rear. The screw is connected to the needle seat through a temperature compensated gizmo, which is said to make the carbs more stable. Adjustment can be done in much the same way, by counting turns/flats of your screwdriver. There is less adjustment range than with the the basic models.

    When you think you're close, stop, uncramp your fingers, breath deep, and do the same to the other carb. Then retune the first carb, and then the second again. This serves to match the mixture of the 2 carbs, and prepare you for the beer sitting over there in the sun. (why do you think the British drink warm beer?)

    step 9- repeat step 7, setting the idle speed as low as possible, and re-syncing the idles. Now go back and readjust the mixtures. After a couple of iterations, the engine should be running smoothly (controlled by mixture) and at a low idle. Repeat as necessary. Set the final idle to 800-1000 RPM, depending on the condition of the rest of the engine.

    step 10- DRIVE! Take a quick spin up the lane, you need the reward of driving a properly tuned car.

    step 11- Adjusting the choke- I won't get into the temperature compensation in the type HIF, or the Thermostatic choke in the later strombergs. Check the manual for more info. The choke is supposed to do two things; the first half of travel moves a cam on each carb which opens the throttle, for warm up. The second half pulls down on the needle seat to enrichen the mixture, for starting.

    Start with the choke in the off position (knob in). Adjust the so that the cam only starts moving the throttle after you start pulling out on the cable (adjust with shafts and adjusting screws). Try to get both carbs adjusted the same, so that both screws begin to hit the cam at the same time. This is not real critical, but you can use your Uni-Syn to match air-flow on both sides, with the choke partly engaged.

    After the cable is about halfway out, it should start engaging the lever which pulls down on the needle seats. Adjust the linkages so both carbs are acted on equally. You can do this by adjusting for even running of the engine. Of course, for a warm engine, the richness of this mixture will cause some roughness. Make sure the needle seats return freely when you release the choke.

    step 12- Drink that warm beer (only one, no DWI now...) it will taste great at this point!, go wash up, and go for a ride.

    The first time through carb adjustments can be confusing, once you've done it, all of the stuff in the manuals makes sense. Go back and read them again- As always, I reccommend Bentleys, which is a repro of the original factory manuals, and then Haynes, and throw out the Chiltons. (orginal factory manuals are to be read in a clean enviroment, repros are for smearing grease all over, except, if that's all you got, use it!) Haynes has an excellent manual just for SU carbs, it covers operation, theory, rebuild of all models, and has needle charts for hundreds of car/engine/carb setups. They also have a manual for Zenith-Strombergs, which, while similar, are a whole 'nother beast.

    Anybody who publishes this is required under penality of leaky throttle shafts to give credits, and send or bring a copy to me at the below address!

    Roger Garnett
    /___ _ \ | South Lansing Centre For
    /| || \ \ | Wayward Sports Cars
    | |___|| _ | | 39 Ridge Rd. Lansing, NY, 14882
    | | \ | | | | Rte. 34B, near the intersection of Rte. 34.
    \| \ |__/ / | (607) 533-7735
    \________/ | SAFETY FAST!

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    Does Toyota have an 1800 look-a-like?

    From: southern@neit.cgd.ucar.edu (Lawrence Buja)
    Subject: Re: P1800es Lookalikes.
    To: volvo-net@me.rochester.edu (Volvo mailing list)
    Date: Fri, 7 Feb 92 11:37:16 MDT

    >My wife thinks I'm nuts but there are some old Toyota Station Wagons
    >around that have the radiator grill very reminisent of the P1800's,
    >and the rear is a lot like the p1800es with a pin stripe on the Toyota
    >defining the Volvo's fin and the hatchback's being slanted similarly.
    >Anyone else ever notice this???

    Yup, my old bud Patti had one of these. Don't remember the year/model but it was a P1800ES knockoff.

    You will occasionally see a wagon version of one of the Jensen-Healey sports cars that's very P1800ESque. But then again, this may not be a coincidence since I believe the P1800ES body work was done at the Jensen-Healey shop in England.

    Oblig volvo.babe story:

    I don't know what you guys are getting so puffed up about picking up the odd hichhiking babe or two. My babe.pickup average in my 142 is anywhere between two and three babes at a time, multiple times week. And I will only pick up red-heads, too. Usually after I pick them up, we go to my place, have a nice quiet dinner, a bath, play around for awhile, then go to bed. I usually have to read the babes a bed-time story first though. Something exciting like "The Kitten that wouldn't Purr", "The Little Cowboy" or "Foggies Big Adventure". And the next morning, I then run our red-headed kids back to preschool, leave the 142 there and ride my bike up the mountain to work.

    /\ Lawrence Buja Climate and Global Dynamics Division
    \_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research

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    A few questions about the 1800.

    From gingold@think.com Thu Mar 5 19:14:08 1992
    Date: Thu, 5 Mar 92 18:51:41 EST
    To: tim@me.rochester.edu
    Cc: volvo-net@me.rochester.edu
    Date: Thu, 5 Mar 92 17:43:53 EST

    From: Tim Takahashi <tim@me.rochester.edu>

    One thing that really impressed me about the P1800 was that it was comfortable for me to sit in. In most small cars, I feel like I'm overflowing the seats, but the P1800 that I took a spin in was most comfortable.

    I can vouch for this. I spent six days in mine a while back driving across the country. Other than a sore right knee (no cruise control), I was quite comfortable, more than I would have been in my 244.

    The door openings are a bit odd, though......

    Yep. The handles are downright goofy.

    Handling seems decent, typical Volvoish seeming mild mannered yet heavily

    thottle steerable.

    The addition of IPD sway bars increases the fun considerably.


    Date: Thu, 5 Mar 92 19:52:18 MST
    From: ewethere@onyx.mines.colorado.edu (Wetherell Edward L)
    To: volvo-net@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: 1800 /etc

    well, i guess i'll join the fun on this one..the 1800 series are great cars!! in my oppinion they are just as strong as the rest of the tanks in the sweedish army. I am the prowd owner of a '71 1800e. It has the full ipd suspension make over, and the engine is no where near stock... it is a fun litte car and handles w/ the best of them. since i'm still lacking a turbo, it is not the fastest, but it is still faster than a speeding ticket... it is very comfortable, i drive between my home in california and school in colorado ~1300 miles (or ~2300) depending on the rout, and i really don't mind sitting in it for 10 hrs at a shot. as for parts, if they are specific to the 1800 series, good luck! most of the drive train and engine are identical to the 140's or 122's. body pannels and interior / glass are a very different story. parts of the break system (ie booster) are terribly expensive. through all my pain and money, that car has been well worth all of it!!

    well, there is my $0.02 worth...

    keep them rollin'


    From wiegman@orion Fri Mar 6 11:02:53 1992
    Date: Fri, 6 Mar 92 10:18:47 EST
    To: ewethere@onyx.mines.colorado.edu, volvo-net@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: Re: 1800 /etc

    I have already made a few personal replies, but i wanted to get out to all of the present and potential 1800 owners. All other Volvo owners may not find this posting as interesting, a delete key may be appropriate.


    > as for parts, if they are specific to the 1800 series, good luck! most of the drive train and engine are identical to the 140's or 122's. body pannels and interior / glass are a very different story. parts of the break system (ie booster) are terribly expensive.

    I can purchase all BUT body panels for my 1800... the parts list includes, inner door panels, steering wheels, glass, rubber moldings, reproduction head light buckets, reproduction frame rails and floor pans... and the list goes on. Realistically speaking, parts for 1800's are plentyful especially considering they are a 20+ year old car. Ever try to find parts for a Alfa Romeo GTV6? ..now that is like finding a needle in a heystack.


    The major weakness of 1800's will be the under body rust dammage. I have spent $5000 on rebuilding the bottom end of my ES sport wagon. As Tim pointed out, it would be nice to drive a California car which has not yet seen the salt.


    I do not feel as comfortable driving my 1800 as I do my 240 wagon. I find the seat in the 1800 just too low to the floor. I like the upright and excellent visibility of the 240 over the high window panes of the 1800. The 240 seems to have a more ergonomic feel that the 1800 (which was designed in '62) does not.. I have heard of many satisfied drivers of 1800's though..Irv Gordan, the million mile Volvo man, certainly didn't drive his 1800S over the 1.1 Million mile mark without enjoying the driver's seat.


    The 1800's were the original Volvo "uni-body." They have frame rails which are integral to the rolled body shell. The car was primarily droped in `73 due to the upcomming stricter safety standards in 1974. The body shell was not designed for the 3 and 5 mile an hour crash tests although fundametally speaking the car still had pseudo-crunch zones. The 240's are very advanced in the area of crash safety.. the 1800's were very good in the 60's, but they are not great performers in todays area of cars. I hopw I never have to test the theories out...


    Foreign Autotech makes reproduction springs for the 1800 which are 20% stiffer than stock, and the same ride hight. These springs are a great compromise between stock springs and the IPD springs. Sway bars also help the old cars keep up with the newer "GT" cars. I do find that stock 1800's have a more water-bed feel than more modern GT cars.. so an upgraded suspension is a good move.. just reinforce the mounting points on the frame and underbody.

    Car Clubs:

    Volvo Sports America is a great organization.. join if you own a 1800.

    keep 'em rolling,


    Herman L.N. Wiegman | Power Systems Technologies Program
    CRD, K-1 4C20 | General Electric, Corp. R&D
    P.O. Box 8 | tel. (518) 387-7148, dial com 8*833-7148
    Schenectady, NY 12309 | fax (518) 387-7132, or 8*833-7132

    Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1992 08:56:56 -0800
    From: Ron Tewksbury <ront@twg.com>
    To: volvo-net@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: 1800's

    My Wife and I own two 1800's. Julia insisted that we buy one as our first major purchase after we got married (every body needs a wife lile this!). Of course, when I ran across an 1800ES that I had to have, she encouraged me to buy it.

    Having both an early (64) coupe and an (72) ES, I have had ample oppertunity to form opinions on both cars.

    The carberated coupes are great fun, and feel very sports carish in a vintage way. The coupe is nimble and makes wonderful noises. It doesn't handle particularly well by today's standards, but if you are like me, speed is a feeling rather than a set speed. In the nearby Santa Cruz mountains, I can keep up with most of the wannabe racers in their fancier equipment. The coupe rewards the driver for driving well. It is not particularly well suited for lo long trips, as there is little in th way of sound deadening materials.

    The ES drives like a completely different car! It doesn't feel as nimble as the coupe does, and to drive quickly through curves, you have to pay more attention to how you set up for the curve to get through it fast. In the coupe, it is easy to throw it into a curve, not so in the ES. On the other hand, for a long trip, the ES is our car of choice. It can carry lots of stuff (in style!) and is fairly quiet and very comfortable to drive.

    Due to financial reasons, one of these must be sold in the near future. We have decided that we will probably have to let go of the ES to help finance my wife's new business. If anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area is interested in a '72 ES that is in very good mechanical condition, fair to good body & interior, we are looking to sell. I can be reached at 415 367-9935. I also have some extra stuff for it in my garage (starters, alternators, some EFI parts) that could go with the car.

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    Can I still get door seals for my 1800?

    Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1992 11:04 -0800 (PST)
    From: PRAX@slacvm.slac.stanford.edu
    Subject: Re: Door Seals
    To: wiegman@orion

    Herm, After a little bit of reseach this morning I have found that the door seals on the 1800's and the 1800ES' are a unique variety to other volvos. Karr does list a volvo seal in their catalogue, but (guess what ?) not used on the 1800(ES)'s.

    RPR in Berkely, CA does stock the door seals for the ES (different than the 1800 !) for $95.00 PER SIDE. Don't think that includes the VCOA discount though. By the way if you call RPR the area code in that part of the bay area has been changed to 510.

    A possibility is to get enough ES owners together that need door seals to make up a 100 foot order. There's got to be, what, 8-10 feet of seal for each door. One thing I did not check with RPR is if the 1800 and the ES use the same style seal, just different size. But they are different.

    If I can be of any more help, I will be out of town until Friday morning. The snow skiis are calling and I can't resist them anymore.


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    Technical information on sway bars.

    From: w2iy@hoqax.att.com
    Date: Wed, 3 Jun 92 17:59 EDT
    To: Tim Takahashi <att!me.rochester.edu!tim>, swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: re: Sway Bars - (more technical)

    Yim asks for "any other personal experiences" re: anti-sway bars. So here goes (this is an 1800 diversion now).

    The stock setup on 1800 is a 7/8" bar in the front and none in the rear. With this setup, there is considerable body roll in cirners, more than I was comfortable with, so I tried some experiments. First I went to a 1" front bar and no rear bar, and this made a BIG difference. Then I went up to 1-1/8" front bar (the size IPD sells) and noticed VERY LITTLE additional benefit. Adding the 3/4" rear bar (again the size IPD sells) made virtually no additional difference at all. (Incidentally, this was all on an 1800\ES with Bilstein shocks and 185/65HR15 tires in front and 195/65VR15 in rear - Goodyear NCT - fantastic tires!). Then I tried similar experiments with a coupe 1800E` and had similar results. Then I went to KYB shocks and found control was about 90% as good as Bilstein. So I concluded (and your conclusions may vary) that one could save a lot of $$$ and get 90-95% of the highdollar setup with a 1" front bar (an Addco product, sold thru JCWhitney for about $60) and KYB shocks. Tires are very important here - when I took off the NCTs and the ATS alloy wheels and put on garden-variety Goodyears on the steel wheels, the whole setup began to feel a lot more squirrely.

    One of the wonderful things I've always felt about 1800s and older Volvos in gfeneral is that you can make experiments like these and see large improvements w/o too much sweat. I've never owned a car newer than 1979 so can't speak definitively about how easy it would be on a newer car to do this, but I suspect the answer is "not as easy."

    Regaqrds to all,


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    P1800 Summary.

    Date: Fri, 29 Jan 93 12:29 EST
    To: att!invader.navo.navy.mil!finnegan (Kenneth Finnegan), swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: Re: P1800 Summary


    P1800 was made from 1961 to 1973 inclusive. The coupe style went from 61 to 72, wagon (ES) style 72-73 (73 production was wagons only). The 61-62 production was just P1800, 63-69 was 1800S, 70-72 was 1800E with fuel injection. There was a minor style change in (I think it was) '65 (change bumper style and side chrome style). There were numerous other styling changes (grille style, interior bits) all along the production. I think the '64 would have had the "bullhorn" bumpers and the "spear" style chrome side trim.

    One of the auction houses (was it Cole?) last year listed the 70-71 coupe as a good bet for appreciation - largely on the basis that these were the most powerful 1088s made. I would think the wagons could be a good bet based on the small numbers of production (8,043 total in 72-73) and the early (Jensen) coupes of 61 and 62 based on the low survival rate (the early cars rusted even moquickly than the later ones, which were still not noted for robustness in this characteristic).

    Hope this helps.


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    My P1800 needs body work, any suggestions?

    Date: Tue, 12 Nov 91 10:05:22 EST
    From: wiegman (Herman L. N. Wiegman)
    To: FINNEY@husc3.harvard.edu
    Subject: Re: P1800 needs body work


    I am having major work done to my ES this winter at the only shop which I know of in NE which does this work (and has experience!). There are two other places (one in VT, and the other in Boston, but both are 'restoration' places which demand top $ and give you top work... i.e. $7000-$10000).

    My ES was rusty from the Wisconsin winters. The floors had some holes in them (4" on a side), the rockers where being eaten (70% gone), and the lower fenders were holy (paying hommage to the rust god). The "top" half of my car was undammaged and in good shape, as was the interior. The frame rails and head light buckets also showed signs of heavy rust. Basically your usual rusy 1800 with no accident dammage.

    The shop in NE that I am referring to is Foreign Express in Barrington, NH. I used to work there for the summers as a college student. It is also where I bought my first used Volvo. Joe Schena is the body man and he has done at least 8 1800's in the past three years. He took my car in this winter because he felt that it was a good project that he could dabble with over a few months. (since he has done so many of these labor intensive jobs on 1800's he may tired of them. I'm sorry if my job makes him apprehensive of taking your car in! :) FE is listed in the Volvo-Net PPL, and Martin Hardy is the owner (he gives a 1-year unlimited warrentee on all of the used Volvo`s that he sells).

    Foreign Express used parts, used cars, body work
    Rte 202 & 9 (603) 664-2979
    Barrington, NH 03825

    I didn't want to "restore" my ES, simply because I am a driver and not a museum curator... not only that I do not have the funds to support the restoration of a rust bucket. My goal was to make the car pretty again via a decent paint job and have all the rust repaired solidly as to have a structually safe car. (Rusted frame rails don't do too much in an accident) The work for my car (repair of all major rust via new metal and the repair of minor fender rust with normal body-work techniques) will run me in $5000. This is a respectable price, one which was quoted several times to me, even from places which had no experience with P1800's.

    I decided to start the preparation work myself. I removed all of the trim, carpets, door panels, passenger seat, rear panels, exterior lights, and bumpers. I have all of the nuts and bolts drawn in my note book and stored in baggies so I will have no problems with reassembly. This saves Joe lots of time ($) and storage problems for all of the parts are not an issue. (Funny thing was, I had to put some of the parts back on the car last Fall in order to drive the car up to him in NH :)

    The frame rails and inner support brakets are available through VSA vendors. (Volvo Sports America) The vendor for the frame rails are... ($138 for all)

    Bob Stein, Heinle Road, White Sulphur Springs, NY 12787
    (914) 292-4437 frame rails, rocker panels etc...

    The vendor for headlight buckets (plastic or metal), tirm, and other stuff...

    Duane Matejka, Foreign Autotech York Rd, Hatboro PA 19040
    (215) 441-4421 seals and rubber and other parts etc...

    some other stuff can be had at...

    Dave Pollack 7907 Jenkintown Rd., Cheltenham, PA 19012
    (215) 379-4990 under hood insulation (new)

    Membership to VSA is invaluable in keeping these cars on the road.

    Volvo Sports America/1800 register (est. 1967)
    1203 W.Cheltenham Ave, Melrose Park, PA 19126 $25/yr

    VSA specializes in all years of 1800's and also features a bi-monthly magazine filled with club members letters about technicle info and restoration tips. Many individuals also sell specialty parts and remanufactured items to club members. This club also has chapters nation wide.

    I wish you all the best!


    p.s. On Tim's roster is says that you have a '71 ES. is that true? could it be a European model? or is it a '72 american model?

    Herman L.N. Wiegman --------- ---------
    the Flying Dutchman | | | || V || | | |
    DSP swedish brick | =======| |======= |
    wiegman@orion.crd.ge.com ============================

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    D-jet manifold sensor.

    From: w2iy@hoqax.att.com
    Date: Thu, 25 Mar 93 14:29 EST
    To: att!orion.crd.ge.com!wiegman (Herman L. N. Wiegman)
    Subject: Re: D-jet manifold sensor

    Herm and Jeff,

    If it's coming from a temp sensor, it's almost surely the coolant temp sensor, not the air temp sensor (as Herm rightly pointed out). Yes, it could be the manifold pressure sensor, and yes, contrary to what Bosch would like you to believe, it is adjustable. Herm, in fact the purpose of our 4/24 gathering is to watch me and Perry put a scope on the injector leads and watch the pulse width change as we adjust the pressure sensor). Grind off the epoxy seal covering the coverplate screw. Unscrew the coverplate screw (big slot). Inside you'll see a much smaller screw slot. This is the adjustment. If memory serves, clockwise is leaner, CCW is richer. And it's very sensitive - an 1/8 of a turn can make a noticeable difference.


    PS to Herm - what's the DSP stand for?

    no, but perhaps other's have... I think that teh temp sensor does highly effect the mixture.. the air temp has less of an effect. If you have the VSA trouble shooting guide, it will step you through a very nice map to find if different components are shot..

    Mike, have you heard of this rich running problem? could be that the manifold pressure sensor is on it's way out.. there should be two resistive windings at the terminals of the sensor... pins #1 and 4 should read 300 Ohms, and pins #2 and 3 should read 90 Ohms .. these should be isolated from each other.. Meg Ohm or more..

    is your fuel pressure set ok? could be that the original stalling prob caused someone to crank up hte fuel pressure.. it should be about 31psi after the regulator.. also check to see if the ground wires for the motor and fuel injectors are good. These may cause injector run on..

    see if the spray pattern is good and if the injectors leak.. the fuel consumption problem could be one injector or the cold start injector..I think that three drips a minute is ok for the D-jet injctrs.


    Herman L.N. Wiegman -> wiegman@orion.crd.ge.com
    General Electric - Corporate R&D, Schenectady NY
    - the Flying Dutchman in the DSP Swedish Brick -

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    B-20 parts prices.

    Date: Wed, 30 Jun 93 10:02:41 EDT
    From: wiegman (Herman L. N. Wiegman)
    To: 72451.3572@compuserve.com, DWORKIN@draco.rutgers.edu, FINNEY@husc3.harvard.edu, JWRPPH@ritvax.isc.rit.edu, PRAX@slacvm.slac.stanford.edu, att!att.com!mtqub!bcw, boz@cricf.cray.com, samuelson_tom@ae.ge.com, ront@twg.com, w2iy@hoqax.att.com, wiegman@orion, Michael.Tortorella@att.com
    Subject: B-20 Parts Prices

    vintante volvo nuts, [ 1800 alias, could be B-18/20 alias..]

    as some of you know, I had problems with the power and smoothness of my ES... as it turns out, the FI and ignition all checked out, and the cam and compression did not.

    so, the #2 exh cam lobe was shot (a somewhat common problem on the fuel injected B-20's, I hear) and the compression ring on the #1 piston is probably broken (also a problem on the B-20's, I hear).

    I went shopping for parts; D-grind cam w/ 8 lifters, piston rings, gaskets, fiber timing gear and rod bearings (for the crank to piston rod mating surface after I remove the pistons for the ring change).

    Here is a summary of prices from four sources... (tab delimited)

    ipd in OR, (the folks we all know and love for suspension stuff)

    VV=Village Volvo (discounted OEM prices),

    Bmnt=Beachmont Volvo in OH (w/ 15% discount),

    FA=Foreign Autotech

    and RPR in Berkley CA (real good Volvo specialist)

    ipd VV Bmnt FA RPR

    ------------ ---- ---- ---- ---- ----

    Piston parts 102 116 120 60 71

    Cam parts 290 308 260 160 189

    Gaskets 47 49 43 32 42

    ---- ---- ---- ---- ----

    Total 439 473 429 252 302

    the winner is Foreign Autotech.. some how I didn't expect it. Tom Samuelson of Salem MA just called about U-joints and rear bushings, and FA came in 17% lower in price than ipd. Not bad. Duane Matejke seems to be a good businessman. (he just saved me $221 .. or 47% off "list" OEM)


    p.s. now I have to find time to put the goodies into the motor...

    Herman L.N. Wiegman -> wiegman@orion.crd.ge.com
    General Electric - Corporate R&D, Schenectady NY
    - the Flying Dutchman in the DSP Swedish Brick -

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    Any advice on rebuilding my transmission?

    Date: 14 Aug 92 11:06:00 EDT
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    From: Charles (C.E.) Swepston <SWEPSTON@bnr.ca>
    Subject: re: 1800 transmission

    Hello netters,

    The transmissions (4spd/OD) that were used in the later 1800s and 164s were M410s. This transmission is alot like the M46 of today. There are alot of differences between the M410 and M41 as you will see. The M41 is much easier to dismantle with a small number of special tools. The M410 has bearings that need to be pulled with two special tools from Volvo. I have done a few and they are not to difficult if you can get the tools. I would not recommend trying it without these tools. Let me know if you need any assistance with the rebuild. Also, I found all bearings at a local bearing place. Good luck.

    I hope that I didn't piss on someone's cereal with this posting.

    Chuck Swepston
    (h) 919-779-1946

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    P1800S hits 1,260,000 miles.

    From: cblmarti@ihlpo.att.com
    Date: Mon, 23 Aug 93 09:50 CDT
    To: att!swedishbricks
    Subject: Re: P1800 1,260,000 miles

    The Columbus Dispatch article by Dispatch Staff Reporter Tracy Sacco dated August 18th, 1993 follows:

    This car keep going and going...


    Irv Gordon has put a few miles on his Volvo over the years - enough to travel at least twice to the moon round-trip.

    Unofficially the most durable car in the world, Gordon's Volvo P1800S has hit the 1,260,000-milemark - that's million - and appears to only run better the farther its driven.

    Gordon, a middle-school teacher, made a spontaneous pit stop early yesterday at Segna Motors, 2265 W. Dublin-Granville Rd., while driving across the country.

    "This car just amazes me. I make trips now just to see how long it will take before it starts to leave pieces on the highway," Gordon said. The car, which has been repainted four times, appears to be rust-free.

    Long car trips are part of Gordon's life. He drives, just for fun, an average of 50,000 miles a year. He keeps records, which are verified by the Volvo company, of miles logged.

    Gordon left his Patchogue, N.Y. home Monday for a road trip to the annual meeting of a Volvo owner's club in Flagstaff, Ariz. The meeting begins August 27 and he occassionally will stop at Volvo dealerships and parts stores along the way.

    The fiery red car still has the same transmission and master cylinder it had when Gordon bought the car new in June 1966. It has most of the original engine parts, although he said the engine was rebuilt after 675,000 miles.

    "The car has been great; it's never failed to start," he said.

    The key to making a car last a million miles is to keep up on maintenance, Gordon said. Every 3,500 miles he changes the oil; the belts are changed every 100,000 miles.

    Gordon appears to have broken a world record for the highest mileage, although his name does not appear in the 1993 Guinness Book of World Records because he's never turned it in.

    The highest recorded mileage listed in the book is held by the owner of a Mercedes 180D that reached 1,184,880 miles in 1978.

    Gordon has a 16-year-old daughter who is ready to learn to drive.

    She won't be practicing in the million-mile Volvo. "No one drives this car but me," he said. "She can drive one of my other four Volvos."


    A color picture accompanied the article. It's caption read, "Irv Gordon stands next to his '66 Volvo that has more than 1.2 million miles on it."

    The article was on page 4D for local or otherwise interested individuals.

    David Martin
    AT&T Network Systems
    Columbus, Ohio

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    What is causing my P1800ES to buck?

    Subject: Re: Thanks, but I'm still not there (diagnostics for bucking)
    Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 12:47:59 -0700 (MST)
    From: Joe Rosse
    To: Don McKinnon
    CC: Volvo Net

    On Fri, 22 Dec 1995, Don McKinnon wrote:

    > Here is my last post:

    > My fuel-injected '73 P1800 ES has suddenly developed a bucking problem.

    > It's an engine skipping symptom that comes and goes quickly. When I first
    > started it this morning (after it was dusted with snow last night - a beautiful
    > sight) , it started easily and ran perfectly (beautiful sound). I stopped for
    > coffee and re-started, and the engine couldn't pull the car forward without
    > severe bucking. I upshifted as much as I could to keep the car going.
    > Then, I parked the car in the garage at work for 20 minutes and it started
    > and ran perfectly again.

    > This problem is now a week old and getting worse.

    > Now the car is hard to start on the cold morning. The engine turns over
    > then immediately quits. This happens three times. Then LOTS of cold
    > cranking with no start. Then if I just slightly tap the gas pedal with quick
    > successive taps I can keep the engine skipping along until it gets strong.
    > Then I still have the bucking problem where the engine just stops
    > periodically, then continues. If I can get the car in a high enough gear, I
    > can keep it going. Later in the same day I can restart the car and it will run
    > strong. It does not seem to matter if the car has been in the garage or
    > outside in the cold.

    > Several kind souls from this group wrote - most to suggest that I put dry gas
    > in the tank. Another had this suggestion, which I appreciate, but don't
    > understand:

    > >Sounds like what happens to my B21F or B23E when there is a little smow
    > >is blowing around. Suggest you make sure the high tension components
    > >are clean, especially of salt. As a last resort, new high tension plug and
    > >coil leads may be necessary, or a new dist cap/rotor. Try spraying WD-40
    > >or equivalent onto the thigh tension components (everything from the coil
    > >cap to the plug porcelain). This is inly good for a week or so though,
    > >and should only be considered as first aid to overcome a problem
    > >temporarily pending a more permaent solution (like spring? :) ).

    > I checked for salt and made sure the connections are good, but what would
    > spraying WD-40 do?

    > Someone else said it may be the intank fuel pump. Can I check the
    > pressure at the manifold? It seems good since I saw gas spurt from there
    > when I was tugging on all the connections (I tightened it down).

    > Since the problem is so severe, then disappears, I'm thinking it might be a
    > cold or hot switch that is wrongly opened or closed. Can someone tell me
    > how to check this out?

    > Any other suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

    > Happy Holidays! If you live in greater DC and see a green P1800 wagon
    > on the side of the road, please help!!!


    I had similar--but far less severe--symptoms on my 1800E. Fortunately, they went away by themself, but I think Mike T. may have hit the nail on the head when he mentioned the overlubing problem, because I had just lubed my distributor. Assuming you didn'd do likwise, if I were you I'd replace the distritor cap and rotor. Not that expensive, and it eliminates the chance of a cracked cap that got moisture in it. I'd also double-check to make sure the primary connection from the coil to the distributor is clean and tight; my spade connector was loose and caused some intermittent problems. Then I'd CAREFULLY check the points, making sure they are clean and the connections tight (and not accidentally grounding out; I once had a problem that the connection would ground out only when the plate moved, due to centrifugal advance--what a pain to troublehshoot!). Based on Michael T's comments, I'd also check the fuel injection points. If the problem was still there, I'd replace the condensor (and probably points), since there's no easy way to test the condensor. If that didn't do it, I'd dive into the egg nog bowl, and upon re-emerging, I'd replace the spark plugs and wires--then you would have nearly ruled out the ignition system as the culprit. (Sure, it could be the coil, but coils rarely go bad and are fairly expensive. Maybe you could swap in a known good one from another car?)

    If all the above failed, you would at least have an ignition system that is right up to snuff, and you wouldn't have bankrupted yourself in the process. Now you could move on to fuel problems. A couple other fringers have pointed out the value of removing the cover from the throttle switch and cleaning the carbon tracks with a pencil eraser. Easy, no cost, and may provide benefits even if it doesn't solve this problem. Beyond that, I'm not sure what to suggest that you haven't already tried. (BTW, 1800s don't have an in-tank fuel pump, do they?)

    Good luck!

    Joe Rosse
    College of Business
    University of Colorado at Boulder

    Subject: Re: Thanks, but I'm still not there (diagnostics for bucking)
    Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 15:41 PST
    From: JLOVELL.MFG@pc.trimble.com (John Lovell)
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu


    I went through the same thing this summer and it was the distributor (shaft). Cost of a new distributor including points, condensor, and trigger contacts:$135

    Other hints:

    -Check the fuel pressure at the cold start valve inlet with a cheap pressure gauge. I got one for $10 at the hardware store. If there is no pressure then that's your problem. As I said before, for me it was a new fuel tank.

    -Joe Rosse's tuneup suggestions are all good. With new points, condenser, cap, wires, points, I used my timing light to watch the spark on each plug. During the bucking I could see the spark drop out. -Mine would run smoothly at constant speed, but acceleration was ridiculous.

    Good Luck

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