FAQs about Electric

  • Cause of the cracked brake and tail light lenses.
  • Wiring harness problems.
  • Good advice on keeping your battery in good working condition.
  • Where to get information on how to build you own instrument voltage stabilizer.
  • How can I fix a cold acceleration problem?
  • Do any of you out there have any magic potions for these fuse panels?
  • Intermittent electrical problems with my turn signals.
  • Location and function of relays .
  • Alternator wires and engine wire harness insulation.
  • Flakey electric window switches.
  • I can measure a 12V drop in my rear defroster (across the two sides), it does not seem to work. Any ideas?

  • Cause of the cracked brake and tail light lenses.

    Date: 21 Jan 92 22:06:40 EST
    From: Shel Hall <76701.103@compuserve.com>
    To: <volvo-net@me.rochester.edu>
    Subject: tail light wattage


    This is just an attempt to add a little information to the collective Volvo.Net wisdom, and maybe save someone a few bucks ....

    I know you have noticed how many 240s seem to loose their backup light lenses, but have you noticed how many have warped or cracked taillight lenses generally?

    I don't know why the back-up light lenses fall out, but I think I've found the cause of the cracked brake and tail light lenses.

    All the bulb holders _look_ interchangable, but all of them aren't.

    There are several patterns of taillight clusters fitted to 240s, the two most popular being the little ones found on earlier cars, and the bigger ones found on later cars.

    My '84 has the big clusters, with the following pattern of use (US driver's side lens when viewed from rear):


    |               |               |               |
    |  Blinker      |  Backup       |    Fog        |
    |               |               |               |
    |               |               |               |
    | Tail & Brake  |    N/C        |   Tail only   |
    |               |               |               |


    The light on the right side of the car is a mirror image, of course.

    All the lamp holders are single contact _except_ the combination tail/brake holders.

    Of the single-contact holders, the tail-only slot uses a low-wattage bulb, and the rest are medium-wattage bulbs. All the single contact holders are, in fact, interchangable.

    The dual-contact holders used for the tail/brake lights are different on different sides of the side of the car; if you get the holder on the wrong side, it still works but it causes the medium-wattage filament in the tail/brake bulb to become the "tail" light.

    This has two bad effects: (1) your brake lights are almost invisible when the tail lights are on, and (2) the lens can't take the extra heat produced by constant use of the higher-wattage filament; it warps and eventually splits.

    So, if you're tracing a bad connection or just cleaning up back there, don't mix up the tail/brake light holders!

    Obviously, if your car has the brake lights in the "upper, inner" corner of the light cluster, and uses single-contact bulbs at all positions, you don't have this potential problem.

    Watch your Wattage!


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    Wiring harness problems.

    Date: Wed, 3 Jun 92 05:34:29 PDT
    From: King Cynic 03-Jun-1992 0819 <jackson@pravda.enet.dec.com>
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: harness

    Well, it appears that my problem is significantly more serious than I originally thought. Last night after work, I spent about 2 hours removing the entire harness. It connects to the following things:

    EFI Temperature Sensor
    EGR System
    Oil Pressure Sending Unit
    Temperature Sending Unit
    Cold Start Injector
    Control Pressure Regulator

    A section about a foot long, just under the intake mainfold was *COMPLETELY* stripped of all insulation *EVEN ON THE #10 ALTERNATOR-TO-STARTER-BATTERY* cable. Needless to say, I think I'm very lucky I didn't have a fire with this thing. Anyway, to get the harness off, one simply must take the intake manifold off. I tried for quite a while not to do it, but it's damned near impossible and would be impossible to put the harness back on.

    Now the bad news. This thing is, in my opinion, beyond repair and Volvo wants $230 for the new harness. The harness has a different part number for every model year, so getting one at a junk yard is pretty much out of the question (as well as it's a fair amount of work to get the damned thing off) Well, at least it's not as bad as it could have been. An engine fire would have really ruined my day! (as well as almost forced me to buy a new car)

    The new harness is on order and I'll get it tomorrow (thursday). The reason that I'm posting this is to let people know of this problem so that they can check their own cars. I have no idea what caused this, but the insulation has just discintigrated on all of these wires. Could be heat (just against the bottom of the intake manifold which is heated by the Turbo) could be oil (the EGR and crankcase ventilation stuff is right there too) or something else. If you have an old Turbo, poke around on this set of cables to see where you stand. You'll find two large 8-pin connectors on the firewall connected to the cable that is routed under the intake manifold. My wires were shot just where the cable went under the manifold up to where Control pressure Regulator connections are.

    | it was at 95,000 miles (it's an '84 240 GL). I didn't even attempt to follow the same path as the original wires, I simply got some spare wire (I had stripped them out of my oven a few years ago when it died, so I knew the wires would be heat resistant, but that was mostly a case of luck). Anyhow, I routed the wires over to the side frame allong a short

    I'd be concerned about this for a couple of reasons. First, if you didn't replace all of the wires, you may have the same problem as me and not know it. I'd check to see what the rest of the wires do. Second, there are some pretty heavy gauge wires in there, especially the main alternator-to-battery wire.

    | jump to the right side of the engine bay, I think I had it along some other cable or rubber hose. I then traced the original wires back to the plug that you also mention, cut the wires and attached the new once using the european style connectors (you can pick them up at any Radio Shack). They are clear plastic housing surrounding a small metal tube (diamerter of about 1 mm), with a screw at each end. If you use these you won't have to worry about the stuff coming apart like it can with twist connectors. Then cover the wires and connectors with electrical tape, and you'll be set for a good many more years.

    If you do your own wire, I'd strongly suggest getting a soldering iron and some heat-shrink tubing. Solder the connections together and then shrink some insulation back onto the connection. This stuff won't unwind or slide down like tape can do. Soldering will ensure that the connection doesn't fall apart some time due to vibration, stress or something else.


    Date: Mon, 29 Jun 92 08:28:09 PDT
    From: King Cynic 29-Jun-1992 1111 <jackson@pravda.enet.dec.com>
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Cc: jackson@pravda.enet.dec.com
    Subject: harness replacement

    It's been two weeks now since my wiring harness bit the dust on the 240Turbo and I wanted to summarize the experience and problems with those out there on the net.

    The wiring harness was essentially shot, and I don't think anything short of replacing the harness would have done. I found at least 6 wires, including the major +12 from the battery-starter-alternator. The replacement harness was about $200 from Volvo with my discount (I buy through a friendh who owns a repair shop)

    Removing the harness is not an easy job due to the routing directly under the intake manifold, pas the control pressure regulator, some sensors and the cold-start injector on the manifold. I think someone could get the harness off without removing the manifold, however I think it would be impossible to put it back on. Two of the connections are directly under the intake manifold and you can't even see them let alone get your hands in there. Chalk up another $12 for the intake manifold gasket.

    Once the intake manifold is off (remember to disconnect the idle pump connections) the rest is easy. While I was at it, I replaced all of the vacuum hoses to the control pressure regulator, distributor and anything else I could find. No sense having a vacuum line fail when it's hard to replace when I could do the entire area for a couple of bucks. When I got the harness off, I really realized how bad it really was. Part of it (I think) was damage during the removal since there was lots of crumbled insulation lying around on the bock. Who knows what else beside the alternator wasn't working because of this. (more on that later)

    I found it's quite a bit easier to get the alternator connections as well as the oil pressure sending unit connections on with the alternator removed. (I didn't actually do this, but learned this later when I had to replace the alternator. More later)

    Once it was all connected back up, battery back in and all, the car started right up, however the dash lights were still on and the voltage was low. The alternator was still not charging. Since I had a spare regulator/brush set , I put it in. NO luck. I had the alternator tested and it had blown some diodes so I had it rebuilt. (this is when I learned how much easier it was to connect the wires with the alternator out) You can "hear" an alternator with bad diodes as they tend to whine/growl when revved.

    That done, the car is all back together and working fine. The oil pressure gauge now works (it was always pegged at "3" before) and the idle is much more stable than it used to be. (the idle used to surge about every two seconds back and forth between 800-1300 RPM) I think that the lines to either the idle motor or the control pressure regulator were shorted)

    The car is also very hesitant when cold, and I think something was set up wrong to make the car run right with something shorted out. I'm going to check the timing and have the CO set when I get a chance.

    All told, this little adventure cost me about $350 including the harness, a regulator, an alternator, intake manifold gasket, and misc hoses and clamps. (remember to always clamp your vacuum hoses on a turbo since the intake manifold is pressurized and will blow the hoses off)


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    Good advice on keeping your battery in good working condition.

    Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 20:14:22 -0500
    From: ac623@freenet.carleton.ca (Ross Gunn)
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: Batteries - Care and Feeding of
    Reply-To: ac623@freenet.carleton.ca

    I would like to add my $.02 worth to Tom's excellent comments.

    After advising and/or assisting friends, if they still want a new battery, I ask them for the old one. I check it carefully for ability to hold a charge and evenness of specific gravity across all cells. If good, I treat it with care, keeping it fully charged and warm. On a cold (-30C) morning, a fully charged warm battery, even if it has less capacity than a new one, will give more output that the best battery that is thoroughly cooled. Sometimes, such cast-off batteries are useable for some years. Most people who discard this type of battery want to be sure they have nothing but 100% output under all conditions and aren't interested in continuing to struggle with a battery that is not close to perfect. (This is how I justify to myself the taking a useable battery away from them)

    When checking cables and connections, also check the other end of the cables (connections to the starter motor, block, alternator, chassis ground and main positive lead to vehicle system)

    As well as avoiding quick charges (50 or 100 amps or more), avoid deep discharges (as would occur if the lights were left on all day). Fully discharging a battery (unless it is the "deep discharge" type) will significantly reduce its service life.

    Charging current:

    Unless time is important, charge at the lowest rate possible 3-5 amps recommended.

    Battery storage:

    If a battery is left partially, or worse still fully discharged for an extended period (weeks or months), a largely irreversible reaction takes place creating an insoluble form of sulphate. The longer the period of inactivity, the less reversible the reaction. This reduces the charge capacity of the battery. The process may be reversed to some degree by charging the battery VERY slowly over a long period. Charge at about 1 amp for a week or more until the specific gravity stops increasing. Thus, as Tom mentions, it is quite important for a battery to be kept charged, especially if it is to be stored. In addition, before storing a battery for an extended period (like over a winter) give it a full charge until it begins gassing (bubbles appear in the electrolyte) then continue the charge at a low rate such as 2-3 amps for another day or so. The battery should not need further charging over the winter, but check the specific gravity of the electrolyte monthly to see if there is any drop. Recharge as required.

    Ensure removable vent caps are removed during all charging operations to avoid pressure build-up in the cells and allow gasses to escape.

    *** SAFETY WARNING: the gas produced during battery charging is a
    *** highly explosive mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. Ensure good
    *** ventilation and avoid all sparks and sources of combustion.
    *** An exploding battery full of sulphuric acid can spoil your day.

    Battery Replacement:

    When buying a new battery get the biggest and meanest one that will fit your compartment. The extra $10 or $20 is a small price to pay for the extra durability, starting power, and long operation under emergency conditions (especially for those who live in areas affected by lack of ambient warmth a few months of every year).

    P.S. By the way Tom, what is EDTA that you suggest as a possible

    Ross Gunn Ottawa, Ontario, Canada 613-746-1817

    Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1992 09:38:48 PST
    From: Raphael_F._Bov.wbst311@xerox.com
    Subject: Re: Dead Battery?/ Headlights
    To: AI4CPHYW@miamiu.acs.muohio.edu
    Cc: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu


    I've learned a lot about electrical systems from owning Volvos. That or what I had learned earlier remained dormant.

    In my experience, there are only a few reasons why batteries die.

    1) repeated full discharge - get deep cycle, not starting-type battery if needed
    2) overcharging, due to a bad voltage regulator
    3) age (???) - supposedly counteracted by EDTA, esp. early in battery life
    4) poor charging in the car, leads to 1

    To check for these things, look up a good diagnostic book; I just use common sense: you should know if you've been running the battery into the ground frequently, or if it's really old (1 and 3)

    A voltmeter can tell you lots:

    a well battery reads something like 12.3 to12.8 volts at rest.
    a well battery will hold voltage under load when not charging
    low initial drop when load added
    little voltage drop when the load is applied for some time, like 5 min.
    when charging, the alternator provides 13 to 14.5 or so volts
    output should hold between 13 - 14 volts as you add load, i.e.lights, fans, etc.
    when cranking the engine, voltage will drop to 8 volts or so and vary with load

    If the voltage when running is higher than 14.5 or so (16 to 18 volts, say), it's 2, if it's low, like near the battery's resting voltage, it's 4. I vote for 2. The lack of battery acid is key. If the alternator is putting out too much voltage, the battery gets cooked, driving off the water in the battery acid. A 13 month old battery should be neither an inch down, nor have problems holding a charge unless it's bad.

    Be aware that you can get internal problems. I had a battery once that did everything you could ask, except start the car. Held voltage, charged all right. It just wouldn't deliver under load. Diagnosed by the dealer as an internal short apparent only under load!!

    Also be aware that the voltage regulator is now internal to the alternator, not on the fender skirt like your's probably is. I had no problem retrofitting the new type into my original alternator; replaces the brushes, too!

    As always, YMMV



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    Where to get information on how to build you own instrument voltage stabilizer.

    Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1993 06:41:18 -0500
    From: ah301@yfn.ysu.edu (Jerry Sy)
    To: juns_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
    Subject: voltage stabilizer
    Cc: swedishbricks@me.rochest

    [ gauges fluctuating while driving (temp/gas) 240 ]


    > The thing is really crazy.

    > Can it be that thing iPD talked about?

    > I am takling about the voltage regulator behind the gauges??

    > Since its affecting both gauges, it isn't likely to be the temperature sender???

    > **WARNING** I'm not making this up for April Fools !!

    Yes, it is definitely the voltage regulator. But you don't have to pay muchos buckos to your friendly volvo dealer for that, if you are handy with electronic circuits and knows how to solder, you can build one yourself for $5 worth of parts from Radio Shark. I did that when mine broke, with procedures courtesy of Mike Tor... (sorry forgot your last name).


    From: w2iy@hoqax.att.com
    Date: Fri, 2 Apr 93 09:23 EST
    To: ah301@yfn.ysu.edu
    Cc: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: voltage stabilizer

    Jerry et al,

    I was the perpetrator of the gauge voltage stabilizer update. If anyone needs the info, let me have a snailmail address and I can send you a copy of the article I wrote on it for VSA some years ago.


    From: w2iy@hoqax.att.com
    Date: Sun, 4 Apr 93 23:05 EDT
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: voltage stabilizer update

    To all of you who have requested my instrument voltage stabilizer article (and there are well over a dozen of you now):

    1) I'm not altogether wure what years this applies to.I do know that the stabilizer I know about was fitted to all 1800s from 1970 to 1973 at least, and possible to earlier ones but I don't know that. I also know that there was a similar stabilizer in my '73 142E. Since I've never owned a newer Volvo than 1973, the later ones are all foreign to me.

    2) Since there are so many of you and all I have is a paper copy, I woudl be grateful if those of you who arestill interested in seeing the piece send me a self-addressed stamped envelope and I will mail a copy to you toot sweet. In the meantime, I can give you the hint that the upgrade uses a 3-terminal voltage regulator - all I had access to at the time was a 7812 so I needed to put in a resistive network to get the voltage to 10 volts. If you can locate a 7810 you probably could do this much more easily.

    Best to all,


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    How can I fix a cold acceleration problem?

    Date: 29 Apr 1993 13:45:20 -0400 (EDT)
    From: V093P9MD@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu
    Subject: coil connections
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    I have mentioned this before, but will repeat it since we have a few new members. I was able to solve a cold acceleration problem by cleaning the connections to the high-voltage coil. The problem was one that had slowly gotten worse over 2 years, dispite the use of techron, and the usual maintanace, and hours of mental grinding trying to find the problem. The coil eventually got so dirty that it started to spark past the side, and then subsequently refused to start. I was amazed at the simplicity of the simplicity of the fix as I had gone through the throuble of replacing the wires, plugs, etc. not too long before.

    So use the techron to prevent buildup, and clean the coil if you have 80,000 miles plus. It's cheap and very easy, and it might (I hope) solve your troubles as well.

    Happy Motoring,


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    Do any of you out there have any magic potions for these fuse panels?

    Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1993 06:56:08 PDT
    From: werner.wbst311@xerox.com
    Subject: Re: European fuze panels
    To: rbaitken@aitken.b30.ingr.com
    Cc: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    >Do any of you out there have any magic potions for these fuze panels???

    The best solution I have come up with is to stop using the Plastic/Ceramic fuses with exposed metal (the "classic" European fuse) and to go to the glass style with the metal inside. BUSS Fuse makes "German" (European to us) fuses that have the same torpedo shape and size, but hvae the fuse element enclosed in a glass tube (like an inline fuse). The 8 Amp fuses are # GB-8, and the 16 Amps are GB-16. They even make an assortment kit (GKB?).

    I have been getting mine from a local (Rochester NY) chain, NU-Way Auto. I expect some national automobile chain stores might have them, or can at least get them.

    BTW: Fun is driving in 60mph rush-hour traffic (yes, you get that in Rochester) when you encounter a sudden downpour and discover that the fuse for your wipers has blown.


    Date: Wed, 7 Jul 93 10:08:08 EDT
    From: wiegman@orion (Herman L. N. Wiegman)
    To: rbaitken@aitken.b30.ingr.com
    Subject: Re: European fuze panels
    Cc: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    Bob, [ and all other 240/260 fans ]

    >CHECK THE FUZES FIRST !!! [note frustration in the typing style... herm]

    I agree 100% with Bob, the fuses are a pain in the bricks motar. I have had my fair share of problems due mainly to a leaky windshield which drips water onto the fuse panel. This has greatly accelerated the fuse corrosion in my brick.

    I have done the following proceedure a few times. I think it helps to keep the gremlins at bay...

    1) remove all the fuses and perhaps the plastic kick panel (the fresh air vent knob needs to be removed by pushing out the split-pin vertically).
    2) remove all copper oxidation and corrosion with some steel wool (SOS pads) and moisten all fuse holders with WD-40 or other penetraiting oil.
    3) check the tension of all the fuse holders, bend inward slightly if needed.
    4) apply SLIGHT layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or other electrical gresse to the ends of the fuses and re-install them.
    5) check the voltage accross the fuses with the fuse's accessory running.

    The voltage should read below 0.03 Volts.

    If any of the fuses become hot, they are obviously not making a good contact. Saabs are notorious for wire harness fires. Their fuse box is in the engine compartment and the harness has over 45 wires going to it... so perhaps we should count our blessings...

    keep 'em rolling,


    From: cblmarti@ihlpo.att.com
    Date: Wed, 7 Jul 93 11:10 CDT
    To: att!swedishbricks
    Subject: Re: European Fuze panels
    Cc: ihlpo!cblmarti

    Thanks for the responses to my "Electrical Gremlins" post of last week. The gremlin stopped rearing its ugly head after I posted to the net! I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

    Continuing the European Fuse thread even farther...

    >Bob, [ and all other 240/260 fans ]

    What kind of fuses do 122s, 1800s, 140s/160s, 7x0s have? (No offense intended for 444, 544, 850, and 9x0 Volvo owners)

    >CHECK THE FUZES FIRST !!! [note frustration in the typing style... herm]

    The glass fuses are recommended by "ipd" in a "TECH TIP" on page 62 of the new catalog. I will quote the catalog in a moment, first to fend off the inevitable "Who's ipd and what's their number?" questions. ipd is "Dedicated to improving vehicle fun, safety, and performance" for Volvos and other vehicles. They produce a Parts and Accessories catalog for Volvos 1959 - on. They are located in Portland Oregon and their numbers are: Orders 1.800.444.6473 Product Support 1.503.257.7598 Fax 1.503.257.7596

    The TECH TIP of ipd echos Herm's suggestions. I too have been plagued with fuse problems from time to time...once the fuel pump fuse opened as I pulled out into traffic...hazard flashers time and drift to the side of the road...I hate it when that happens! The fuse was the second thing I checked... The fuel pump must be borderline on pulling too much current sometimes, its fuse is slightly deformed a day or two after installing a new fuse.

    The TECH TIP is as follows:


    200 series fuses

    Many of you are aware of the fuse corrosion problems that exist in the 240 and 260 series Volvos. Usually this comes to light via a break-down! There seems to be two answers to this.

    1) Consider the fuse box a routine maintenance item, and clean the contacts on a scheduled basis, (at least if you're using the traditional ceramic fuses).

    2) Remove all your outdated ceramic fuses, use a small brass or steel bristle brush to clean the fuse holders and then install stainless steel capped glass fuses. No more corrosion problems! If fuses seem loose, remove and pinch the holders together and re-install your fuse.

    And for moist climates where the problem is aggravated, try our high conductive elctrical grease. It's been proven effective in eliminating electrical corrosion problems.

    Oxgard Conductive Electrical Grease (.5 oz) #OX-GARD $4.99 tube


    Reprinted without ipd's permission...

    The local route of obtaining the glass fuses is recommended if you don't have a need to order anything else from ipd because of the shipping/handling charges ($4.95 Continential U.S./7.90 rest of U.S./9.55 Canada for orders to $25).

    David Martin
    AT&T Network Systems
    Columbus, Ohio

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    Intermittent electrical problems with my turn signals.

    Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 09:41 EDT
    From: pjf@mrst.com (Peter J. Faill)
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Subject: Electric glitches /turn signals

    > Everyone's favorite kind of problem: intermittent electrical glitches. When I got my 240 three years ago, the device which makes the "click" sound for the turn signals would always throw in an extra click about Then it mysteriously disappeared. It didn't seem dependent on summer or winter; the interior of the car being warm anyway. Now, after about a year abscence, it's back. When it's doing its I've experienced similar problems. The cause always has been corrosion building up on the fuses. It's become routine maintainence for me to rotate my fuses within their holders. This scraps off the corrosion between the fuse and the holder.

    Two weekends ago, I thought I'd really nip this problem in the bud by removing all the fuses, sanding them lightly, and reinstalling them with a liberal amount of dielectric component. The dielectric compound was suppose to keep a good electrical contact while blocking moisture from reaching the fuse to fuse holder metal surfaces.

    Since this operation, I've had two experiences with the radio going out and one with the whole car's electical system going nuts (gauges and warning lights exhibiting eratic behavior). In all three cases, just rotating the fuses again fixed the problem. I thought the dielectric compound was going to help but it's made things worse.

    > My manuals show this clicking beastie as dwelling in the center console. I've hesitated to open the console up, being that I've heard what a mess of wires have been jammed in there. Anyone ever had experience with this little noisemaker? It does get annoying after a while.

    I've had clickers fail on me in my 240's. They're easy to replace. They just plug into a socket. Remove the plastic covers from the side of the center console near where your knees are usually at. You'll find it among a bunch of other wires but it's easy to distinquish, especially if you've bought the replacement one to use as a guide. It costs about $15.


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    Location and function of relays.

    From: memsthd@prism.gatech.edu (MIKE WILEMAN) Subject: Re: Relays To: corey@cthq.enet.dec.com (28-Sep-1993 0835) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1993 17:07:33 -0400 (EDT) Cc: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    > How about someone with a 240 shop manual of recent vintage using the
    > great power of the net to post a message containing the LOCATION and
    > FUNCTION of the -thousands- ;^) of relays located throughout the 240?
    > Seriously: I know there are at least 5 behind the center console and
    > center dash vents. I know one is the automatic OD and one is the
    > 4-way flasher, but there are several others. There are a couple under
    > the false panel(s) in the driver's footwell. There are a few on the
    > passenger side under the sound panel near the computers. A few more
    > up in the area near the steering column. I hear a mysterious faint
    > click "somewhere off in the distance" over in the front passenger side
    > several seconds after each shut-down. Help!

    > --Chris

    This is actually done very well in the Volvo wiring diagram. I seem to recall that this is a two-page spread with a pictorial of the car and a legend which clearly shows the location of every relay.

    I think that every Volvo owner should buy the wiring diagram for his car. This is actually a book which contains a complete wiring diagram, plus separate wiring diagrams for individual systems, plus the relay diagram, plus a few other goodies I don't remember right now. They charge a lot more than it cost them to make this thin little book, but it has saved me 50 times its cost since I bought it. A kindergartener could troubleshoot a circuit with this manual. I always carry it in the car with a cheap $5 multitester, and it has bailed me out a couple of times on the road.


    From: Michael D Shafer <mshafer@acsu.buffalo.edu>
    Subject: 240/260 Relays
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Date: Fri, 15 Oct 93 8:49:24 EDT


    Here is a partial list of the relays in the 200 series

    For a diagram and map send a SASE to me

    there are about 50 relays

    Michael D. Shafer
    137 Kenefick
    Buffalo NY 14220-1611

    Behind Driver headlight

    -speed relay --85

    -electric radiator fan --85

    -AC switch out relay

    -TZ-28H ignition system control unit(on fender wall)

    Behind Pass. headlight(on fender wall)

    -Voltage regulator

    -Windscreen wiper intermittent relay

    Passenger Strut tower(front)

    -Starting valve impulse relay --85

    -Ignition system control unit TSZ-2(260)

    Somewhere Between Pass Strut tower and headlight

    -Chrysler ignition system control unit

    -ignition system control unit TSZ-2/TSZ-4 (260) 85--

    Driver side strut tower(facing engine)

    -Glow plug relay D24 with integral 80A fuse

    -Glow plug relay D24 84--

    Driver strut tower to the front on the fender wall

    -Stepping relay for hi/lo beams and flasher

    -Headlamp wiper relay 80--

    -Spotlamp relay 80--

    -aux light and foglight relay

    -Lambda Sond(c) relay --85

    -Electric radiator fan --85

    -Control unit relay diesels 80--

    -Inline fuse for emission control system

    -Stepping relay for hi/lo beams and flasher

    Plus another 30 inside the car!

    Michael D.

    From: Michael D Shafer <mshafer@acsu.buffalo.edu>
    Subject: Interior relays
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    Date: Fri, 15 Oct 93 11:35:39 EDT

    Ok, here are the rest,

    hope it helps someone out:

    some location descriptions may be fuzzy.


    Passenger side, upper kickpanel

    -CIS control unit --85

    -Emission control system control unit --85

    -Control unit, LH emission control system

    -main lighting relay --85

    Passenger side, firewall

    -Main relay for LH emission control system

    -Fuel pump relay, 84--

    -EZ-116K ignition system control unit --89

    -Rex ignition system control unit

    Center console area

    -Power window relay --80

    -overdrive relay

    -central locking relay,opening(left)

    -central locking relay,closing(right)

    -power window relay --84 More centered

    -AC relay

    -Seat belt reminder, 80--

    -Direction indicator relay(drivers side)

    Drivers firewall (above and left of pedals)

    -Fuel pump relay --75

    -Time delay relay, interior lighting

    -Light warning buzzer --80

    -rear window heater relay(USA)--89

    -seat belt reminder(USA)

    Pedal Area

    -Main lighting relay--85

    -Rear foglamp relay --86

    -Windscreen wiper intermittent relay

    -Dim-dip regulator(GB)

    Driver kickpanel(top)

    -fuel pump relay --79, --76/77

    -Glow plug relay with integral 80A fuse

    -Direction indicator control unit --86

    Michael D.

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    Alternator wires and engine wire harness insulation.

    Date: Thu, 21 Oct 93 10:07:52 EDT From: wiegman@orion (Herman L. N. Wiegman) To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu, watt@cadsrv.enet.dec.com Subject: Re: Alternator wires

    240 netters, [ from '75 to about '86.. i think ]

    G> The discussion of alternator wires reminded me that mine are in pretty sad shape.

    It seems that most older 240's have poor quality engine harness wire insulation. Don't just check at the alternator! Also check the harness connector on the firewall, by the #4 intake runner. This is where the 6 or so wires interface with the interior.

    I know that turbo charged motors tend to speed the deterioration of the insulation. I also know that a greasy/grimy engine bay will speed insulation aging. I try to slow the process with a engine cleaning once a season. (simple soapy spray at a manual car wash, this type of maintenance also keeps engine work a pleasureable experience... the spouse appreciates a clean sink after I work on the bricks. ;)

    G> What is involved in replacing these wires?

    Well, I looked into this with a co-worker here at GE R&D. The harness is about $140 from Volvo depending upon which year you have. The harness includes the starter control wires, the alternator wires, the oil pressure wire, the engine sensor wires, some ignition wires, and maybe some FI wires.

    The harness wraps from the alternator, down under the main pulley to the intake side of the motor, by the starter, then up to the fire wall behind the #4 intake runner.

    The Volvo "blue book" suggestes it is a 4 hour job. I think this means that the intake manifold on the K-jet bricks needs to be removed, quite possiblly on the LH-jet cars as well.

    D> I also had to remove the alternator to get enough room to peel back the harness.

    I think the harness on that side of the motor can be pushed back down to the main pulley. Then it will be pointing down at the ground. After removing the lower engine bay cover, a repair to these wires may be eaiser. Disconnect the battery first to avoid "archs and sparks."

    My friend decided to "jumper" the bad wires around the engine compartment.. and "snip" the old ones. Total cost: $3.00, total time: ~1 hour. I feel this is an acceptable repair, but it does not have the perminence, or reliability of a full harness replacement.

    FB> I can only contribute the collective wisdom of the Bov.

    like wise.. repair according to budget, vehicle worth, and personal ambition. (the rule of Bov?? :)

    Now-a-days, I think it is easier to change diapers and read books at a 1 year old level, than it is to play under the swedes.....must be my attention span... maybe my homebrew is effecting my brain.

    good luck,


    Herman L.N. Wiegman -> wiegman@orion.crd.ge.com
    General Electric - Corporate R&D, Schenectady NY
    the Flying Dutchman in the DSP Swedish Brick -

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    Flakey electric window switches.

    From: nessie@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Nessa)
    Subject: Re: Electric Window Switches
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu (Volvo-Net)
    Date: Wed, 27 Oct 93 22:06:06 EST

    Kent Kalnasy writes...

    > For some reason, the window switches in the driver's door of my '92 244
    > are getting flakey. The first was for the driver's window, which the
    > dealer replaced under warranty. Now, two months later, the switches
    > for the other windows are going. Why?

    > Is there a known problem with rocker switches on this car? I'm going
    > back to the dealer under warranty again, but I'm struck with how they're
    > all going out. Any ideas?

    Well yes! :) I know about this problem. I have had the switches for my 244 rear passenger window lifts go bad. There was a note in the owner's manual to the effect that "the right rear window switch is intermittent."

    I later (4 years or so) started having real problems with the left rear switch. At this point I decided to start looking at what the problem might be.

    I found that the switch is a dpdt momentary center located switch. I don't really understand the logic for the window lift motors but it is set up in such a way that the switches can cancel each other out and the rears can be easily disabled.

    The upshot of this is, there are a lot of contacts in these switches and they are spring loaded and sit on little ball bearings. (like b-b's, sort-of) The electricity flows through the b-b's and the spring as well as going through spring loaded contacts.

    When these springs get old they start to get dirty and worn. All you have to do is disassemble the switch and reset the tolerances for the switch contactors and clean the b-b and spring assembly.

    I did this last fall and have had absolutely NO problems with the switches since then. Now I do have a small problem with the windows occasionally not wanting to roll all of the way up, but that is another story.

    Brian & 'Nessa (watched over by) Priscilla & Herman (carpet sharks)

    "Maybe it's a gift, a special talent that I, alone, possess!" --Wembley

    "Maybe it's a curse, a special weirdness that only you are stuck with!" --Red

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    I can measure a 12V drop in my rear defroster (across the two sides), it does not seem to work. Any ideas?

    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
    From: legato@comox.island.net (Simon C Hutchins)
    Subject: Re: AC switch and rear defroster

    >From: legato@mail.comox.island.net (Simon C Hutchins)
    >Subject: Re: AC switch and rear defroster

    >>My other problem is that although I can measure a 12V drop in my rear
    >>defroster (across the two sides), it does not seem to work. Any ideas?

    If there is no current flow there will be no voltage drop. Therefore measuring 12 vdc at the positive terminal of the rear defrosting element only indicates that there is POTENTIAL power at the terminal, and not that the element is dropping any voltage. Try Measuring current flow !! Carefull as this is relatively high current ( 10 amps ?) so dont blow up a small multimeter that only has a 500 milliamp capacity.

    If there is no current flow.

    1; the connections to the element are bad,
    2; the element ground connection is bad
    3; the element it's self is not conducting. (Most probable)

    To check the element;

    Using a very sharp voltage probe you can measure the progressivly increasing voltage drop across the element, by gently pushing the tip of the probe into the conductive material of the element. ( start at the fat vertical strip of conductive element material, on the positive side. The voltage here should be just below 12 vdc) Then work your way across each element..

    If there is an open in the conductivity of the element you will measure 12 vdc up to the open and then 0 v on the negative side. ( on smooth progressive decrease - no current flow = no voltage drop ) My guess is that all the segments of your element are open, Look for scratches in the element. On one of my old 140's the element material corroided where each horizontal segment joined the vertical segment, on the positive side.

    There is a product available here in Canada that is like a conductive paint that can be used to repair scratches and open circuits of this nature. I have never used it myself so cannot comment on it's effectiveness.

    Simon Hutchins legato@comox.island.net
    Vancouver Island Canada
    '73 142 S
    '81 242 GLT

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