FAQs about Miscellaneous

  • What is causing the strange noise coming from the area around the front passenger footwell?
  • Can I fix a noise coming from my speedometer?
  • What should I do to my brick before putting it into long-term storage?
  • Does anyone know why my wiper motor sounds like a diesel generator?

  • What is causing the strange noise coming from the area around the front passenger footwell?

    Subject: Re: Noisy flappin
    Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 07:25:51 PST
    From: glenn@alldata.com (Glenn Thompson)
    To: Paul.Armijo@internex.net
    CC: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    -->I have recently noticed a strange noise coming from the area around the
    -->front passenger footwell. It seems when I get on the Boost (around 2-3 psi)
    -->there is a noise that sounds like a flap opening and closing. It is kind of
    -->loud. It sounds like it is coming from around the CIS computer. When I get
    -->off the throttle there is a closing sound. What is this noise and how can I
    -->get rid of it?


    I've seen this before, the vacuum supply to the heater has an in-line check valve in the vacuum hose near the intake manifold. Trace the small vacuum hose that goes through the firewall on the passenger's side to the heater. Where this hose is connected to the intake manifold there is a black/white plastic check valve (there is also one for the brake booster there too) take this valve off and see if you can blow through it both ways (blow lightly) if you can blow through it both ways it's bad. Might check the brake one too.

    What happens is the REC flap in the heater has manifold vacuum to it all the time (unless the REC button is IN). When you get on the turbo boost the intake manifold pressurizes and the flap opens because it looses it's vacuum source. This check valve is there to prevent this from happening. Just replace the black/white check valve and this will stop. DO NOT switch it with the brake's check valve or you will have brake problems then. This problem is mainly seen on turbo's only because they can pressurize the intake and a non-turbo can't. It's the check valve I'd put money on it.

    Glenn Thompson (glenn@alldata.com)
    1983 242 Intercooled/Watercooled Turbo
    Volvo Cert Master Technician since 1975
    Automotive Technical Editor, Volvo Database
    Alldata Corporation, Elk Grove, Ca.

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    Can I fix a noise coming from my speedometer?

    > From: Dave Munroe
    > Subject: Re: speedometer noise
    > To: spbeam@indyunix.iupui.edu
    > Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 10:39:06 PST
    > Cc: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    > > Now that it is getting colder there is a noise coming from my
    > > speedometer. [...] Is there anything I can do so before it breaks?

    > I don't think it'll break. Interestingly, the noise on mine disappears
    > for months on end; I don't think I've heard it for almost a year now.

    > Anyway, I've been told that there's no easy way to lubricate the cable and
    > that the speedo needs to be replaced. I didn't do that right away and was
    > pleased to note that once the interior of the car warmed up, the noise went
    > away.

    > -Dave
    > '85 244 DL 164k - Der Kurvemeister

    Subject: Re: speedometer noise
    Date: Fri, 08 Dec 1995 19:14:48 +0000
    From: Worthington
    To: spbeam@indyunix.iupui.edu, Dave Munroe
    CC: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    Ah...Help from the world of motorcycles.

    You local Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, etc. dealer has a very handy gadget that is just great for lubeing (sp?) cables.

    Go there, check it out, ask them how it works, go home, use it, then be happy...life is good after all!


    What should I do to my brick before putting it into long-term storage?

    Subject: Q: long-term brick storage
    Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 18:13:40 -1000
    From: crawford@ilhawaii.net (Ted Pirsig)
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    Hi all,

    We're moving to Japan for two years, renting out the house, storing our two 245s.

    I'm planning to:
            - pull the spark plugs, squirt couple tablespoons oil in each cylinder, crank, replace plugs
            - raise off ground / store on blocks
            - top up gas tanks; add "fuel moisture remover"
            - disconnect batteries
            - cover with tarps
            - (maybe) run "closet heaters", 7-watt heaters electric, to keep damp out (it's wet wet wet here, but never below freezing)

    Anything else anyone can think of?


    -Ted Pirsig
    (Whose Mazda, upon returning from a year in Amsterdam in '92, had 6" tall plants growing out of the driver's seat...)

    Subject: Re: Q: long-term brick storage
    Date: Mon, 11 Dec 1995 10:11:33 +0800
    From: "Hans Sauer"
    Reply-To: sauer@gene.com
    To: crawford@ilhawaii.net (Ted Pirsig)
    CC: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    In addition I would

    - raise the tyre pressure somewhat
    - wax the car
    - plug the exhaust pipe while the exhaust system is still warm
    - smear copper paste around the sparkplugs when you put them back in
    - add some more rust inhibitor to the engine coolant
    - spread little bags or socks filled with silica gel or Calcium Chloride
    around the interior and store the car with the windows closed
    - If you really want to do something good to your stored car, check the 
    advertisements in "Classic and Sportscar" or maybe "Hemmings Motor
    News". There is a product from England which, I think, is called the
    "Carcoon". It is basically a giant ziplock bag which contains your car
    and is inflated by a small electric fan. That fan keeps blowing filtered
    air through the bag and not only keeps your car nice and dry but (so I
    heard) is also very good for drying out cars that have taken up lots of
    moisture in the sills and other inaccessible spots. Owners of expensive
    classic cars use it to prevent inavoidable condensation moisture (if
    they don't have a heated garage).
    Now - I don't know if you want to treat your bricks like you would treat
    your Aston Martin, but check it out.

    Good luck and have fun in Japan! Talk to you in a couple of years before you wake up your Volvos again.


    81 240 DL wgn 110K
    74 164E 170K
    64 PV544
    56 Opel Olympia (hibernating in long-term storage)

    Subject: Re: Q: long-term brick storage
    Date: Mon, 11 Dec 1995 09:40:47 EST
    From: "SESTRAIT"
    Organization: Vermont Technical College
    To: crawford@ilhawaii.net (Ted Pirsig), swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    If you are going to leave the cars for a considerable period of time, I might suggest flushing the brake system so that you start off with fresh brake fluid in the system. This will help to maintain all of the brake system seals.

    Or you could send your Volvos to uncle Seth's Volvo camp where they will be driven daily (since I'm in need of a car). And who knows, they may be heavily modified when you return.....or built up to pro-rally spec.

    Seth Strait
    69 BMW 1600

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    Does anyone know why my wiper motor sounds like a diesel generator?

    Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper Motor & Volvo Parts Places
    Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 13:15:49 -0500 (EST)
    From: James Carriere
    To: Andy Hicks
    CC: "'Swedishbricks Intresse'"

    On Fri, 5 Jan 1996, Andy Hicks wrote:
    > Sorry for this somewhat meanial post, but I'm about to go crazy dealing
    > with my #*@*#@ front windshield wiper in my '84 240gl. When I flip the
    > wipers on at any speed, the motor sounds like a diesel generator; it is
    > extremely noisy and very slow. The fastest speed it can go is about the

    Funny, I've been having the same problem, especially in the _cold_ cold :)

    I took the cover off of the wiper gearbox and poured a swallow (not a metric measurement) of motor oil in there (yes, I know it's supposed to take grease, but I was really cold and tired). The noise has gone away now and the wipers are a more normal speed. Maybe the motor was dried out and the worm gear pulled some of the oil from the gearbox into the motor (mabye it's my imagination too).

    Hope this helps.

    82 244DL B21A M46 309K km / 191K miles

    James Carriere, third year mechanical engineering, Carleton University
    jcarrier@engsoc.carleton.ca http://www.engsoc.carleton.ca/~jcarrier
    Board of Governors of EngSoc UNIX project: UNIX accounts for ALL
    engineering students, run (mostly) by engineering students.

    Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper Motor & Volvo Parts Places
    Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 22:10:48 -0800
    From: ad366@lafn.org (Dana Adams)
    Reply-To: ad366@lafn.org
    To: hicksa@cris.com
    CC: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    Andy, I had the identical problem with my daughter's 83 244T. The problem was a loose intermal magnet. I removed the motor, dismantled it, re-glued the magnet to the inside of the motor case, let it dry, then re-assembled. The motor works perfectly. If you are good at disassembly and reassembly, you can probably fix that motor for free. I used an industrial epoxy that can be obtained from a well-stocked plumbing supply house. I'm sure it could also be obtained elsewhere.



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